Are Auto Belays Safe Reddit. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equip

What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Jul 24, 2021 · Feeding rope is not affected. Reattach the carabiner to the belay gate or designated attachment point How to Become an Auto Belay Pro Now that you're familiar with the basic operation of an auto belay you can take the next step toward becoming an auto belay master. The number of auto belay accidents are increasing. Auto Belay Devices Many indoor climbing settings have auto belay devices which allow people to climb without the need of a partner. Mar 23, 2022 · As practiced by Sharma Climbing gyms "Climbing is very safe when done properly. What is included with a day pass? Can I bring someone as a guest if I am a member? Do you offer rental gear? Do you have auto belays? Built for Safety BelaySAFE helps everyone climb safe and belay safer. That’s how magnetic auto-belays control your descent. I would theorize that a 50lb mass could pull down the auto-belay, considering a True Blue auto-belay has a minimum climber weight of 45lbs. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Unlike magnetic, a friction auto belay uses a drum brake, similar to a parking brake in a car. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. May 22, 2015 · The coil stays tensioned, and actually increases the farther away from the auto the person makes it. Covers orientations, inspections, belay gates, and rescue protocols to protect your climbers. Belay System Costs An auto belay system is significantly more expensive than a traditional belay system because it is a very technical piece of safety equipment. Am I missing something, is this an acceptable practice? The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. The 25-foot climbing wall has three auto-belays and 11 top rope routes, providing opportunities for all levels of climbers. Oct 21, 2021 · I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop). It Start Your Climbing Journey Adults can start bouldering anytime or auto-belay climbing following a short induction. Belay System Inspection, Care and Maintenance Both belay systems need to be properly inspected and maintained. That they rely on the principles of induction and magnetism, and that the break system is powered entirely by your weight due to gravity. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. " - Chris Sharma, professional rock climber and owner of three climbing gyms 1. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. It allows the climbers to climb on their specific schedule or execute larger groups of climbers at one go. Nov 12, 2021 · Auto belays are automated belay devices that carry the slack as a climber mounts the climbing wall. Sep 7, 2018 · This entry was posted in BIA tips and Tricks, Event Tips, News and tagged auto, auto belay, automatic belay, belay, belay systems, climbers, climbing, climbing facilities, dangers automatic, fun sport, rock, rock climbing, systems. The home of Climbing on reddit. Jan 24, 2023 · Auto belays are great for climbing roped walls without a partner and for training endurance or doing laps on climbs, as you don't need a human belayer. New harness belay loop? Safe or unsafe? Black Diamond Solution New to sport climbing, been lead/ top roping for the past month at least 4 times a week. However, as with anything that people rely on to keep them safe, it is important to understand how auto belays work, how the technology varies between different brands, and what risks and safety considerations you should be aware of before purchasing, installing, or using an auto belay. The data shows that these accidents occur among both new and experienced climbers. I really want to be able to trust auto belay coz if I donf overcome the fear, I donf dare to do harder ones as I would be scared of falling on the auto belay. I think that rationally, autobelays are pretty safe as long as the user doesn't get complacent and stops checking everything before climbing - human error is much more likely than a system that is regularly checked. But he weighs 100+ lbs more than I do. Operators in the adventure and recreation industries can enhance their facilities with these reliable systems, providing climbers with safe, independent ascents. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Belaying is mainly about May 24, 2022 · Still, the easy-to-use auto belay quickly becomes the friend of many rope climbers as it provides a safe and accessible way to climb long routes by yourself. Theres drills you can do for bouldering to help strengthen and get comfortable. Apr 7, 2021 · So the belay loop is quite strong and many configurations of attaching to it are safe. Bouldering laps at low grade. 310 votes, 227 comments. checking my harness today and I saw this? Curious if it was user error, something to be expected, or poor manufacturing. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. "Climbing is very safe when done properly. Aug 21, 2018 · The last few years have seen the release of several new or updated "passive" assisted locking devices, including the ATC Pilot from Black Diamond. It seems like you are setting up some kind of spring loaded children wrecking ball system. Durable, light and upgrade-ready! Self regulating magnetic braking system Designed for indoor or outdoor use Trusted worldwide with high-quality parts If selecting TRU-CLIP Connector, additional Key Links may be needed for optimal coverage. Bookmark the permalink. I'd love for him to learn how to belay so he can belay me, but I'd like to not be entirely selfish and be able to reciprocate. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. One caused a ground fall from ~25 feet up, one instance was caught and after a couple tugs the system caught and the climber was able to be safely lowered and the third instance resulted in a down climb to safety. While this is much harder to see with a casual visual inspection of the tie in loops. Does user error occur when a person belays instead of an auto belay, yes but it is substantially less enough to merit the removal of auto belays imo. Mar 31, 2021 · Curious about auto belays? Our guide explains how they work, answers the question "are they safe?", and covers the pros and cons for climbers. Or how sport climbers thread through the anchor and clip a loop knot on a bight to their belay loop when lowering off after leading. 270 votes, 132 comments. I started working as a contractor for Belay doing virtual assistant work in early February 2023. Apr 11, 2013 · My forever climbing partner, of course, is my Sweetie Sheila. But, a climber always has to take responsibility for their safety—whether it’s their knot, their harness or, in th We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Mar 16, 2022 · Discover how to belay with this simple introductory guide outlining all the elements to consider. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Although climbing gyms have different policies, all share one key instructional ingredient: clip the auto-belay into the belay loop of your harness. Always be aware of what your doing, especially if your climbing alone. Using BelaySAFE Once anchored and calibrated, BelaySAFE makes it easy for anyone to start belaying safely and confidently. We came to the decision to remove auto belays. Developed by a gym owner for climbing gyms worldwide. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. You don't have to get AB certified first, it is included in your TR cert if you aren't learning it. Or find out about our personalised 1-to-1 and small group sessions, ideal for special occasions and social groups. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. . But honestly, in reality, I do find them pretty scary. When we went to Cantabaco last Sunday, March 7, Raymund and Martin, a German climber, were already there. Auto belays revolutionize climbing experiences by eliminating the need for a human belayer. Central Rock Gym provides everyone with a world class indoor rock climbing, fitness, and community experience in state of the art facilities. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Inside the device, the lanyard wraps around a rotor that features movable magnetic arms. Friction Braking Auto Belays Like magnetic auto belays, friction auto belays hang on the top of the wall and use a retraction spring to take in webbing as a climber ascends. The belay loop is designed to handle metal gear and some are even built to make it visually obvious when the loop is wearing out. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. The way the Perfect Descent auto belays work is also based off the weight of the climber, but due to the coiled spring, heavier people descent faster, since they're putting more force on the coil, and lighter people descent slower. You pass. Jan 4, 2021 · Auto-belay devices may feature one of the following systems: magnetic or friction. Climbing is awesome, but it can be easy to forget that it's freaking dangerous. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's not much different from clipping in when using an auto-belayer. For the Top Rope and Lead tests, you will get a little tag to hang on your harness that says "Top rope certified" or "lead certified". I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. What are your guys thoughts? TRUBLUE Auto Belay - Beware. The Mechanics of Auto Belays Jun 30, 2023 · A complete guide to auto belay safety for gym operators. Maybe your college was different but I don't seem to remember any classes that even came close to being helpful in designing an auto belay system. Sep 25, 2019 · An auto-belay is a device that’s anchored to the top of the wall and automatically takes up slack as you climb. Warming up properly (keep intensity low for your first few climbs, if you're pumping in your first few climbs you need to pick easier grades). Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 2 tons. Because the device automatically catches falls, climbers may not experience the same level of challenge or risk as they would with a human belayer. Unlock the secrets behind the safety of your climb with a deep dive into the inner workings of belay systems and the convenience of Auto Belays. That is one of the areas where auto belays can really shine. She belays very well, and I feel totally safe when I lead climb cliffs and artificial walls. Magnetic Auto-Belays Do you recall the iconic rule of magnetism? Opposites attract and likes repel. It is a game changer for gym owners and climbers alike. 1. Auto belay laps. In through nose!!! Learning to manage fatigue on the wall, so finding good rest spots, shaking out. Basic equipment is provided at no extra charge and belaying during most open climb times. auto belay ?? New to climbing and the public wall has multiple autobelay systems. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Mar 2, 2023 · There is no denying the importance of auto belays in helping anyone climb and do their own thing without the assistance of anyone. For the day, Raymund and Martin are climbing partners. Am I being unreasonable? I haven't really kept up on my climbing education since the 3 week basecamp 5 years ago. Aug 19, 2023 · I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Feb 22, 2020 · Understanding auto belays can be a little unerving if you've not used one before, we cover how they work and how to use them safely. Ensure that the gym you climb at gets their devices sent out for recertification at least annually and that the devices are CSA, ANSI and/or EN/CE certified. For multi-use walls, what about a carabiner sensor system similar to Vertical Endeavors (without the RFID component) that simply illuminated either a "On belay" or a "Not on Auto-belay" sign based on whether the autobelay was attached? Auto belay will help you get comfortable with falling but you're still gonna have to practice falling when you're bouldering to properly get comfortable. Jan 7, 2016 · TRUBLUE Auto Belay - Beware. Since the device is automatic, it does not totally replace a belayer to pull the other end of the rope, so there is no belaying technique in place to assist on a catch. Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. Won’t give up though… will go back on the weekend again, eventually I’d be good. The installation cost for each system is the same. Is it safe to tie a climbing rope to a carabiner for top-roping / lead climbing? Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Have him use an auto-locking belay device such as a Petzl GriGri and make sure he's anchoring in the gym. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. Most of these are falls from the top of the wall due to failure to clip in, making them catastrophic. I wasn’t a huge fan. If you're outdoors and your belayer weighs significantly less than you have them tie off to a tree or boulder or place a piece of gear protecting upward motion. He's been using the gym's auto belays. One of the more widely sold auto belays in North America was recalled due to a design flaw that caused some of the internal parts to wear more quickly than anticipated. The carabiner somehow got pushed up against a hold and unclipped from the belay loop leaving the climber stranded mid-route. Apr 24, 2023 · Auto belays can provide a false sense of security for climbers. Alternative to auto-belay devices for at-home climbing wall? Building an outdoor climbing wall. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Understanding Auto Belays and How it Field serviceable locking bolts enable worn Auto Belay lines to be replaced Sequenced connector locking system means Auto Belay lines no longer retract accidentally QUALITY CONTROL: CE Certified and Manufactured in an ISO 9001 registered facility Manufactured in stainless steel – it has been tested to withstand 2. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). Don't you think to check before you climb? Don't you miss the tugging sensation at your waist that you get with an auto-belay? I also think your title is very unfair, as although you later admit it is your fault, it certainly has nothing to do with the auto-belay and the 'headline' is what people notice and remember. The auto-belay devices empower people to climb even when having a partner is not feasible. 237 votes, 198 comments. They have revolutionized climbing facilities worldwide by making the sport more accessible, enjoyable, and most importantly, safe. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t bring myself to lean away from the wall. TLDR; Was unfocused and climbed a route alone without hooking into an auto belay, lucky I didn't kill myself. I know you attach auto belays on your belay loop, but no one climbs those every single route. You will likely spot a TRUBLUE auto belay system or a Perfect Descent auto belay device in your local gym. But, a climber always has to take responsibility for their safety—whether it’s their knot, their harness or, in the case of auto belays, making sure they’re clipped into their belay loop. Jan 3, 2023 · That is one of the areas where auto belays can really shine. Establish an auto belay zone Setting aside Jul 17, 2023 · Auto belays not only provide safety but also freedom, as they allow climbers to climb independently and practice without the need for a partner. Feb 17, 2022 · I tried to take deep breaths, starting from somewhere low, but I just simply can’t…. I will discuss why this might not be the best option for our customers later. C)The auto-belay and human belay setup are both perfectly safe when used individually (I would say that the auto-belay is safer due to not needing a good belayer to belay for your) Tips, go up. And yes we are scared of falling. Jan 15, 2024 · The best way to eliminate the risk of auto-belay injuries and deaths is to remove auto-belays from our gyms altogether. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. The coil stays tensioned, and actually increases the farther away from the auto the person makes it. When you’re ready to come down, the device catches you and lowers you slowly Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. May 28, 2021 · Grasp auto-belays' benefits in climbing: no belayer needed, ensuring safety, independence, and accessibility for climbers of all levels. If your not focused, don’t climb. 76 votes, 74 comments. I tried to take deep breaths, starting from somewhere low, but I just simply can’t…. For roped climbing, you need to book an instructed lesson or choose one of our taster sessions. What gear is needed to use the autobelay system? Is purchasing used equipment a poor choice? 274 votes, 101 comments. Nov 19, 2022 · Today, the auto belay devices that you see in many rock climbing gyms are made for climbers and have stringent safety standards. Learning to breathe deeply and slowly while climbing. During my first climbing lesson, the instructor explained how the auto belays work. One of the main takeaways should be to keep your belay loop free of material when you are not using it. This climbing device allows a climber to climb without a belayer. Love y’all. The most tested and trusted auto belay in the world. Are auto belays generally safe like 99% of the time yes, but when things go wrong its tragic and traumatizing for everyone involved. Local gym in my area uses these auto belay systems, in the past two weeks they've failed 3 times. Dec 14, 2017 · Always descend feet first, using feet to fend off obstacles and prepare for landing. But how do auto belays work? How does it make any climber safe during the climb? The answer to these questions and other related information can be found below. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. Feb 6, 2023 · Curious about how does an auto belay work? We explain the inner workings of magnetic, friction, and hydraulic systems in this complete guide. Fun fact: Perfect Descent has the only approved auto belay device for IFSC Speed Climbing events. An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. I had a hard time finding any information out there from actual contractors who work with them and their experiences when I was deciding to accept a contract with them. Plus I don't want two carabiners getting in my way while I'm trying to climb. Or how lots of people TR solo and clip their progress capture device to the belay loop with a carabiner. The auto Belay test is just a quick lesson on them, and you climb up halfway and jump off. Oct 12, 2020 · Wondering what auto belays are? In this post, we detail what are the main types of auto belays, how they work and how to use them properly. 3M subscribers in the climbing community.

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